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Petunia seedlings die

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A blooming petunia is a very beautiful decorative flower that can grow with equal success both in open ground and in various pots and pots. Adult flowers are quite unpretentious and will not require special attention from the gardener. Unfortunately, this cannot be said about young plants. Petunia seedlings are very capricious and, without proper care, quickly begin to ache and die. Below we describe the most common causes of loss of seedlings of petunias.

Causes of seedling death

The reasons why the seedlings of petunia falls and dies quite a lot. Most often they are associated with a violation of the conditions of care or with the defeat of young plants with various fungal diseases. Among all the reasons leading to the death of seedlings of petunia, one can single out the most basic ones:

  • low air humidity;
  • defeat black leg;
  • chlorosis;
  • problems with the root system.

Let us consider in more detail each of these reasons.

Low air humidity

For seedlings of petunia, high humidity is very important. And it is important not only for young shoots, but also only for planted seeds. If the seeds of petunia do not provide high humidity, they simply will not grow.

Tip! High moisture content for petunia seeds is achieved with a film or glass that covers the seed container. At the same time the soil with the seeds should always be wet.

Very often, when only sprouted shoots appear, the gardener hurries to remove the film from the landing tank, while making a huge mistake. As a result of such actions, young shoots lose their moist environment and become weak and unviable. Often they cannot even get rid of the seed coat.

One way out of this situation is to increase the humidity of the air. Petunia shoots should be covered again with film or glass, thus reducing the flow of dry air. At the same time, the tank with the seedlings of petunia should be ventilated once a day.

If the shoots of petunias continue to grow, but they do not shed their seed coat, they will have to help. Use for this you need tweezers or a thin needle.

Tip! Pre-shell is moistened with water using a pipette and gently release it from the sprout of petunia.

Black Leg Damage

The main reason why petunia seedlings are dying is a fungal disease known to almost all gardeners as a black leg. At the same time, the first time seedling of petunias looks quite healthy and grows well. But then it falls sharply and no longer rises.

Visually, the lesion on the black stem can be identified by the thin base of the stem and its characteristic black color. That is why the disease became known as the black leg. The black leg is caused by various types of fungi that are found in the upper layers of the soil. They are present in any land, but until a certain point are hibernating. As soon as the external conditions become favorable, mold fungi become more active and begin to infect any plants in the zone of their reach. Activation and further reproduction of fungi that cause black leg occurs when:

  • high humidity;
  • warm earth;
  • dense planting seedlings;
  • acidic soil.

It is easy to see that all these items are similar to the conditions necessary for the growth of petunia seedlings. That is why the prevention of black legs should not be overlooked. Preliminary disinfection of the earth and daily airings of shoots of petunia will help to avoid the black leg. But if suddenly, despite these actions, the black leg still struck the seedlings, the first thing to do is remove the affected plants without regret. Then it is recommended to completely replace the soil in which the seedlings grow.

If, after the removal of all diseased plants and transplantation, the black leg continues to kill the seedlings, then you can resort to the means of chemical control. For this you need to prepare a solution that makes the soil unsuitable for mold fungi. Such a solution can be prepared from potassium permanganate or from 40% formalin.

Root system issues

Problems with the root system can be suspected only when the seedlings first grew normally, and then abruptly stopped growing and began to fade.

Problems with the root system of petunias can arise as a result of improper watering and improper temperature conditions, and as a result of a banal lack of space for the roots. If, apart from a sharp wilting in the seedlings, there are no signs of fungal diseases and the temperature regime is at the recommended values, then you should get a seedling from the planting tank and inspect its roots.

Important! For good growth, young seedlings of petunia need a temperature range of 18 to 20 degrees.

If the roots have grown heavily, then the petunia seedling must pick up a container with a large volume. The first few weeks after transplantation, the young plant will adapt to new conditions, so it is better to postpone feeding for this time. But after one or two weeks, the transplanted petunia seedling is recommended to be fed with a complex fertilizer, which includes phosphorus and boron. These substances will contribute to the rapid build-up of the root system, which has experienced stress from lack of space and from subsequent transplantation.

Chlorosis

It is necessary to speak about chlorosis only when the seeds of petunia have safely sprouted, but the new leaves on the seedlings have not green, but yellow color.

Chlorosis is a very insidious disease that can occur both in young shoots and in mature seedlings just before planting in the ground. If you leave chlorosis without attention, it will inevitably lead to the death of seedlings. The main cause of this disease is iron deficiency in the plant. It may occur due to poor soil composition or due to a weak root system, unable to absorb iron from the soil.

In the fight against chlorosis, foliar feeding will be the best remedy. Thanks to her, the iron will immediately fall on the leaves of the seedlings of petunia and quickly absorbed. Of iron preparations, iron chelate, Ferovin and Micro Fe show good results. If you get them problematic, you can pour or spray the petunia seedlings with a light solution of iron sulphate. You can also apply the usual complex fertilizers, which include iron.

If blooming petunia seedlings are sick with chlorosis, the buds should be removed. This measure will allow the plants to preserve the internal forces that they would spend on flowering. When taking timely measures at the initial stage of the disease, chlorosis can be cured pretty quickly. A longer time will be required in the treatment of running chlorosis, but the outcome will also be favorable. In this case, the yellowed leaves of petunia is not necessary to remove. They can restore their color after two to three weeks.

Conclusion

Seedlings of petunias can be compared with a capricious child who needs constant attention and care. That she did not die before landing in open ground, the gardener will have to constantly monitor her condition, noticing even minor changes. After all, to cope with any disease is easiest at the initial stage, and even better not to allow it at all.

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